KIWAMI Japanese Master Kitchens is adding a new member to its array of specialty kitchens: Roen, House of Robata, which offers yakitori (meat skewers) and large plates.
It joins the six specialized master kitchens across its main concepts (depending on the branch): Yabu (tonkatsu); Ippudo (ramen); Hannosuke (tempura); Hachibei (yakitori); Koyo (hand roll sushi); and Hokkaido Soft Cream.
Built around the concept of modern robatayaki (fireside hearth grilling), it is the latest homegrown offering by The Standard Hospitality Group (SHG).
“Roen is our answer to grilled sharing plates. We used to work with Hachibei, who was our yakitori spot, but we found the menu a bit lacking. They’re quite traditional and we love them, but we wanted more Filipino-friendly items and sharing platters for birthdays,” said Nicole Concepcion, SHG’s group brand manager, in an interview with BusinessWorld.
“In the Philippines, we already have barbecue, so we’re kind of not so impressed with skewers. We wanted something saucier and more flavorful that would make more of an impact. That’s where we got the idea to build Roen ourselves,” Ms. Concepcion explained.
The Roen full-range grill concept was developed by Japanese chef Yuta Saito, whose practice blends his Japanese culinary roots with French-trained technique. At the media preview on Oct. 7, BusinessWorld got to try some of their signature dishes. The hanger steak with chimichurri was a bold pairing, elevating the meat with a bright, herb-forward sauce. The yakisoba was also delicious, having soaked up every bit of sauce and smoke from the grill.
The various skewers also had creative pairings that one wouldn’t expect in yakitori: tomato buta bara (pork belly), beef sukiyaki with spinach and enoki mushroom, and a bacon asparagus roll. Roen basically runs on two separate grills, one for yakitori and one for large plates, ensuring each category is cooked the way it should be.
Another distinction is that the grill makes use of bamboo ogatan (charcoal briquettes made by compressing hardwood sawdust). Apparently, it gives “a cleaner burn that doesn’t interfere with flavor, developing a deep, even char without losing moisture or texture.”
“Working with Chef Saito was perfect for us because he was able to combine his mastery of Japanese grilling techniques with a bit of fusion,” said Ms. Concepcion. “We tried all the robata restaurants in Japan, found him, and developed a first round of dishes there. Then he’d come to visit us about 10 days at a time to localize them.”
She added that they try to source locally for all of their kitchens in Kiwami, in order to ensure freshness and to support local farmers and fishers. “For example, the pompano we have right now is a bit smaller because of stormy seas, but we try to get the big ones when we can. We also get our tuna from General Santos,” she said.
The pompano with miso lemon butter, by the way, was another favorite from the signature shareable plates. The whole fish, filleted in-house, was grilled until the skin got crispy while the flesh stayed tender. The miso lemon butter finish was perfect.
WHAT’S NEXT?
As for what’s next for Kiwami, Ms. Concepcion said that they have been focusing on their homegrown brands lately, following the success of Yabu, then Koyo handroll sushi.
“You can still get the Yabu katsu that you love, and some sushi on the side, but now you can have skewers and yakisoba for celebratory occasions. You can choose from any of our concepts, which are about focused mastery of a single thing,” she said.
There’s no word yet as to when they will open another Kiwami branch, aside from the three they have so far in SM Mall of Asia (MOA), Bonifacio Global City (BGC), and Alabang Town Center (ATC).
“What’s difficult about expanding Kiwami to more locations is that we need a big space for it, for all of the kitchens to fit,” Ms. Concepcion said. “We need about 600 square meters.”
In the meantime, they are nurturing their unique clientele in each branch. “ATC is cute; it’s mainly families and aunties who are regulars there. They all know what they want to order. In BGC, it’s kind of like a cool office crowd, more experimental. Here, there are a lot of newcomers across different markets,” she added.
They are also continuously fine-tuning their Hokkaido soft-serve ice cream, the Kiwami concept that offers dessert. SHG’s chief executive officer, John Concepcion, is known for being the longtime managing director of the Selecta ice cream brand — so they take this one very seriously.
“Our whole deal is different concepts that have focused mastery of a single thing,” Ms. Concepcion said. “That’s our motivation.”
Roen is now available at all three branches of Kiwami Japanese Master Kitchens: in Alabang Town Center, Muntinlupa City; Bonifacio High Street Central, Taguig City; and SM Mall of Asia, Pasay City. — Brontë H. Lacsamana